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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.